Exploring Kolhapuri Chappals' Cultural Significance
Subject: Art and Culture
Topic: Handicrafts and Traditional Crafts

The recent spotlight on Kolhapuri chappals, a traditional handcrafted footwear from Maharashtra, came after luxury brand Prada showcased a design remarkably similar to them in its latest collection. The acknowledgement by Prada, while appreciated, has sparked discussions on cultural appropriation and the need for more substantial support for the artisan community that traditionally crafts these sandals.

Key Points:

  • Professor B V Bhosale's Research: Bhosale, from the University of Mumbai, has extensively studied the leather tanning community, particularly the Charmakars, who are integral to the production of Kolhapuri chappals. His inquiries explore the historical and social dimensions of the castes involved in this artisan sector.

  • Historical Background of Charmakars: The term 'Charmakar' is derived from the Sanskrit word meaning leather artisan. Indigenous to Maharashtra, they fall under the Scheduled Caste category, historically marginalized due to the perceived polluting nature of their work. Bhosale notes that while they identify as Hindus, orthodox traditions often exclude them from complete social acceptance.

  • Geographical Indications (GI): Kolhapuri chappals received a Geographical Indication (GI) tag in 2019, reflecting their unique heritage. This acknowledgement is critical in safeguarding traditional crafts and ensuring that artisans benefit from their cultural exports.

  • Footwear Industry Dynamics: The Kolhapuri chappal production falls within the unorganised sector of the Indian footwear industry, alongside mojari and juttis. In Kolhapur and nearby regions, approximately 25,000 artisans are employed in this sector. Each household produces 35-40 pairs weekly, utilizing traditional techniques that involve multiple labor-intensive steps.

  • Declining Tanneries: Bhosale raises concerns about the declining number of tanneries, primarily due to competition from large factories in Kanpur and Chennai. This situation threatens the livelihoods of the Charmakars by limiting their access to essential raw materials.

  • Economic Pressures: Challenges such as the lower profitability of Kolhapuris, competition from multinational brands, and a generational reluctance to enter this profession due to societal stigma hinder the artisans' ability to thrive economically.

  • Call for Action: Experts, including Suraj Milind Yengde and Suryakant Waghmore, advocate for increased recognition and financial incentives for the Kolhapuri chappal makers. Yengde suggests potential measures, including collaboration with organizations like UNESCO and advocating for fair profit-sharing from brands like Prada.

  • Cultural Significance: The debate extends beyond economics into cultural preservation. Yengde emphasizes the importance of valuing and promoting indigenous crafts, encouraging their global appeal while ensuring that makers are justly compensated.

  • The Future of Kolhapuri Chappals: There is potential for increasing demand for Kolhapuri chappals on the global market. However, experts argue that the Indian government and local corporations need to bolster support for these artisans to ensure sustainability and fair treatment within the marketplace.

Conclusion:

The challenges facing the Kolhapuri chappal-making community highlight broader issues of cultural appropriation, economic sustainability, and the need for institutional support in preserving traditional crafts. The ongoing dialogue driven by recent events emphasizes the significance of recognizing and valuing the contribution of Artisan communities to the cultural heritage of India.

Key Terms, Keywords and Fact Used in the Article:
  • Kolhapuri chappals - Handcrafted leather sandals
  • Prada - Luxury fashion brand
  • Maharashtra - Location of production
  • Scheduled Caste - Social classification
  • Geographical Indication (GI) tag - Regulatory recognition
  • Dhors - Major suppliers of hides
  • Bata - Multinational competitor
  • UNESCO - Potential regulatory body
  • Exploring Kolhapuri Chappals' Cultural Significance
    Exploring Kolhapuri Chappals' Cultural Significance
    Subject: Art and Culture
    Topic: Handicrafts and Traditional Crafts

    The recent spotlight on Kolhapuri chappals, a traditional handcrafted footwear from Maharashtra, came after luxury brand Prada showcased a design remarkably similar to them in its latest collection. The acknowledgement by Prada, while appreciated, has sparked discussions on cultural appropriation and the need for more substantial support for the artisan community that traditionally crafts these sandals.

    Key Points:

    • Professor B V Bhosale's Research: Bhosale, from the University of Mumbai, has extensively studied the leather tanning community, particularly the Charmakars, who are integral to the production of Kolhapuri chappals. His inquiries explore the historical and social dimensions of the castes involved in this artisan sector.

    • Historical Background of Charmakars: The term 'Charmakar' is derived from the Sanskrit word meaning leather artisan. Indigenous to Maharashtra, they fall under the Scheduled Caste category, historically marginalized due to the perceived polluting nature of their work. Bhosale notes that while they identify as Hindus, orthodox traditions often exclude them from complete social acceptance.

    • Geographical Indications (GI): Kolhapuri chappals received a Geographical Indication (GI) tag in 2019, reflecting their unique heritage. This acknowledgement is critical in safeguarding traditional crafts and ensuring that artisans benefit from their cultural exports.

    • Footwear Industry Dynamics: The Kolhapuri chappal production falls within the unorganised sector of the Indian footwear industry, alongside mojari and juttis. In Kolhapur and nearby regions, approximately 25,000 artisans are employed in this sector. Each household produces 35-40 pairs weekly, utilizing traditional techniques that involve multiple labor-intensive steps.

    • Declining Tanneries: Bhosale raises concerns about the declining number of tanneries, primarily due to competition from large factories in Kanpur and Chennai. This situation threatens the livelihoods of the Charmakars by limiting their access to essential raw materials.

    • Economic Pressures: Challenges such as the lower profitability of Kolhapuris, competition from multinational brands, and a generational reluctance to enter this profession due to societal stigma hinder the artisans' ability to thrive economically.

    • Call for Action: Experts, including Suraj Milind Yengde and Suryakant Waghmore, advocate for increased recognition and financial incentives for the Kolhapuri chappal makers. Yengde suggests potential measures, including collaboration with organizations like UNESCO and advocating for fair profit-sharing from brands like Prada.

    • Cultural Significance: The debate extends beyond economics into cultural preservation. Yengde emphasizes the importance of valuing and promoting indigenous crafts, encouraging their global appeal while ensuring that makers are justly compensated.

    • The Future of Kolhapuri Chappals: There is potential for increasing demand for Kolhapuri chappals on the global market. However, experts argue that the Indian government and local corporations need to bolster support for these artisans to ensure sustainability and fair treatment within the marketplace.

    Conclusion:

    The challenges facing the Kolhapuri chappal-making community highlight broader issues of cultural appropriation, economic sustainability, and the need for institutional support in preserving traditional crafts. The ongoing dialogue driven by recent events emphasizes the significance of recognizing and valuing the contribution of Artisan communities to the cultural heritage of India.

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    Trinidad's Indian Roots and Ramleela

    Summary:

    On July 3, 2023, during an event in Trinidad and Tobago, Prime Minister Narendra Modi emphasized the deep cultural connections between India and the Caribbean nation, referencing the significant Indian diaspora that originated from indentured laborers brought to the islands in the 19th and early 20th centuries. This connection is symbolized through Lord Ram and the tradition of Ramleela, which embodies the story of the Ramcharitmanas.

    • Demographics of Trinidad and Tobago:

      • The nation has a population of approximately 1.3 million, with nearly half possessing Indian ancestry.
    • Historical Context of Indian Emigration:

      • Following the British abolition of the transatlantic slave trade in 1807 and the complete abolition of slavery in the British Empire in 1834, a labor crisis emerged in Trinidad.
      • The Emancipation Act of 1838 led to the importation of indentured labor from India to compensate for the loss of enslaved labor.
      • The first group of Indians arrived in Trinidad on May 30, 1845.
    • Indentured Labor System:

      • Indentured labor, while less brutal than slavery, still subjected workers to harsh conditions.
      • Laborers, known as "girmitiyas," faced deceptive recruitment practices that left them in a form of bondage despite the notion of contractual agreement.
    • Cultural Exchange:

      • Many Indians brought cultural traditions, including the recitation and enactment of the Ramcharitmanas, which facilitated the introduction of Ramleela to Trinidad.
      • Over time, Ramleela evolved into a community event, highlighting local participation and traditional practices.
    • Decline and Resurgence of Ramleela:

      • By the late 19th century, this cultural practice began to decline as English displaced Bhojpuri and urbanization transformed community dynamics.
      • Despite challenges, Ramleela has recently experienced revitalization due to shifts in gender and class participation, making the performances more appealing to the contemporary audience.
      • Modern adaptations have embraced innovative dramatic techniques and simplified dialogues.
    • Cultural Relevance:

      • Ramleela remains a primary expression of Indian identity and continues to serve as a cultural anchor for the Indian-origin population in Trinidad and Tobago.
      • The performances persist in imparting the teachings of the Ramcharitmanas, regardless of the audience's understanding of Hindi.

    The interplay of cultural heritage and modern adaptation illustrates how beliefs and traditions can be preserved while remaining relevant to newer generations, ensuring that the essence of Ramleela continues to thrive amidst changing societal landscapes.

    Key Points:

    • PM Modi highlighted India's cultural connection with Trinidad during a July 3, 2023 event.
    • Trinidad has a significant Indian diaspora, stemming from 19th and early 20th-century indentured labor.
    • The first Indian indentured laborers arrived on May 30, 1845.
    • The labor system, while less severe than slavery, was still exploitative.
    • Ramleela, an adaptation of the Ramcharitmanas, became a central cultural practice among Indo-Trinidadians.
    • The popularity of Ramleela declined but is now experiencing revitalization with modern adaptations.
    • Ramleela remains a vital aspect of cultural identity for Indian-origin Trinidadians today.

    Art and Culture

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    Dalai Lama Celebrates 90th Birthday

    Summary:

    The Dalai Lama, born Lhamo Thondup on July 6, 1935, in Taktser, Tibet, marks his 90th birthday on July 6, 2025. Recognized as the 14th Dalai Lama at the age of two, he was enthroned at four in Lhasa. After the Chinese invasion of Tibet in 1950, he assumed political leadership and championed Tibetan identity amid communist suppression. Following a failed uprising in 1959, he fled Tibet and has lived in exile in McLeodganj, India, since 1960.

    Throughout his life, the Dalai Lama has emerged as a global symbol for peace, non-violence, and compassion, garnering international recognition, including the Nobel Peace Prize in 1989.

    Key aspects of his life include:

    • Background and Exile:

      • Fled Tibet on March 31, 1959, establishing the Central Tibetan Administration (CTA) in exile.
      • Retired from political leadership in 2011 but continues to be a prominent spiritual and philosophical figure.
    • Education and Interests:

      • Received education in Buddhist philosophy and metaphysics.
      • Renowned for promoting interfaith dialogue, secular ethics, and universal responsibility.
      • He is an avid reader of scriptures and enjoys gardening. Known for dismantling gadgets as a hobby.
    • Personality Traits:

      • Described as kind and compassionate, he expresses empathy even towards those who govern Tibet.
      • Despite his calm demeanor, he exhibits anger under certain circumstances but manages to overcome it quickly.
    • Health and Age:

      • Maintains a strict daily routine, starting at 3 AM and retiring by 6:30-7 PM.
      • Remains in good health aside from some knee issues, demonstrating an active lifestyle.
    • Family Heritage:

      • The Dalai Lama comes from a family with significant spiritual lineage, including three reincarnated Rinpoche.
      • His siblings have made notable contributions to Tibetan culture and education, particularly through the Tibetan Children’s Villages (TCVs) established to educate Tibetan refugee children.
    • Recent Developments:

      • The Dalai Lama’s health remains a point of interest, with testimonies attesting to his vitality at 90 years of age.
      • In recent months, the Dalai Lama has engaged with global thinkers about the relationship between happiness, science, and compassion, contributing to discourse in various fields.

    Key Points:

    • The Dalai Lama, a pivotal figure in Tibetan Buddhism, celebrates his 90th birthday on July 6, 2025.
    • Fled Tibet after the Chinese invasion, living in exile since 1960 and has been a symbol of peace and compassion.
    • Recognized for contributions to interfaith harmony and awarded the Nobel Peace Prize in 1989.
    • Known for his love of reading, gardening, and occasional mechanical tinkering.
    • Continues to play an active role in the global conversation around ethics, compassion, and responsibility.
    • Family members have played important roles in preserving Tibetan culture and education.
    • His health is generally good, reflecting a lifelong commitment to personal discipline and activity.

    Art and Culture

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    Cultural Bonds Between Trinidad and India

    On July 3, 2023, Prime Minister Narendra Modi addressed a community event in Trinidad and Tobago, emphasizing the deep-rooted cultural connections shared between India and its diaspora in the Caribbean. Below is a comprehensive summary of the key points surrounding the historical and cultural significance of this community.

    Summary:

    • Cultural Connection:

      • Modi highlighted the emotional and cultural bonds transcending geography, referring to Lord Ram as a vital link for the Indian diaspora.
      • Trinidad and Tobago has a population of about 1.3 million, with around half of the residents tracing their ancestry back to India.
    • Historical Context:

      • The Indian diaspora in Trinidad originated as indentured laborers between the 19th and early 20th centuries.
      • Following the abolition of slavery in the British Empire in 1834, a labor void led to the recruitment of indentured labor from India.
      • The first group of indentured Indian laborers arrived in Trinidad on May 30, 1845.
    • Indentured Labor System:

      • Indentured servitude, seen as more humane than slavery, still involved severe exploitation. Workers were misled with promises of wealth and faced harsh working conditions.
      • The term "girmitiya" emerged as a reference to these laborers, derived from the word "agreement" they signed before departure to Trinidad.
    • Cultural Transmission – Ramleela:

      • Despite their limited belongings, indentured Indians carried cultural traditions, notably the Ramcharitmanas, which forms the basis of the Ramleela drama.
      • Ramleela became an integral aspect of community life, with performances being set up by community members who invested considerable effort in staging and preparing culinary experiences.
    • Decline and Rejuvenation of Ramleela:

      • By the late 19th century, Ramleela started declining in popularity due to increased formal education, urban migration, and the shift from Bhojpuri to English among the younger population.
      • In recent years, however, efforts have led to a revival with adaptations to the script and performance style, resulting in increased participation across gender and caste lines.
      • The core narrative and essence of the Ramcharitmanas remain intact, allowing audiences—regardless of language proficiency—to connect with its teachings.
    • Economic and Social Impact:

      • The economic upliftment of Indo-Trinidadians has facilitated a resurgence of cultural practices like Ramleela, reinforcing their Indian heritage while adapting to modern Trinidadian society.
    • Importance of Ramleela:

      • Currently, Ramleela serves not just as a cultural performance but as a significant representation of the Indo-Trinidadian identity, fostering a sense of community and continuity of cultural traditions.

    Important Points:

    • Modi referred to Lord Ram as a "divine link" during his address in Trinidad, underscoring cultural bonds.
    • The Indian diaspora in Trinidad consists largely of individuals descended from indentured laborers who arrived post-abolition of slavery.
    • The indentured labor system was harsher than initially perceived, with workers experiencing bondages framed as contracts.
    • Ramleela has evolved but remains central to the expression of Indian culture in Trinidad.
    • Recent adaptations have broadened participation in Ramleela and re-engaged younger generations with traditional values.
    • The performance continues to be pivotal for expressing Indo-Trinidadian identity and cultural heritage in contemporary society.

    This overview encapsulates the historical context, cultural significance, and the ongoing evolution of traditions like Ramleela within the Indo-Trinidadian community and reflects India's cultural outreach through its diaspora.

    Art and Culture

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    Prada Accused of Cultural Misappropriation

    Summary of the Article on Cultural Appropriation and Geographical Indications (GIs)

    On June 25, 2025, at a fashion show in Milan, Italian luxury brand Prada showcased footwear inspired by India's GI-tagged Kolhapuri chappals, leading to accusations of cultural misappropriation. Geographical Indications (GIs) serve as markers of origin that associate products with specific regions, contributing to their distinctive character. Currently, India boasts 658 registered GI goods which include notable items like Chanderi sarees from Madhya Pradesh, Madhubani paintings from Bihar, and Darjeeling tea from West Bengal.

    Key Details:

    • Geographical Indications (GIs): GIs are defined as intellectual property that identifies goods originating from a specific locality, where their qualities are intrinsically connected to that place. Unlike trademarks, which are owned by businesses, GIs are considered public assets owned by local producers.

    • Legal Framework: Legal protection for GIs is established through international agreements such as the Paris Convention (1883) and further defined by the TRIPS Agreement (1995). India, adhering to these treaties, enacted the Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration and Protection) Act in 1999, effective from 2003, providing a framework for registration, enforcement, and protection of GIs.

    • Enforcement and Rights: The Act allows registered proprietors and authorized users to initiate legal action against unauthorized use that misleads the public or competes unfairly. However, GI rights are territorial, meaning protection is confined to the country or region granting it, without a universal GI right.

    • International Protection: Protection of GIs internationally often requires recognition in the country of origin. Several jurisdictions stipulate this as a prerequisite for protection, which can be further secured through direct applications in respective nations.

    • Historical Context of Exploitation: Indian traditional products have faced misuse by global corporations. Notable disputes include:

      • In 1997, Ricetec Inc. patented a new variety of Basmati rice, but after legal challenges, the patent was overturned.
      • The University of Mississippi held a patent in 1995 for turmeric’s healing properties, which was countered by the Council of Scientific and Industrial Research, resulting in revocation of the patent.
      • In 2000, the European Patent Office revoked a patent on neem applied for by the U.S. Department of Agriculture, citing prior use in Indian traditional medicine.
    • Mitigation of Future Issues: To curb the exploitation of traditional knowledge, the article suggests expanding the Traditional Knowledge Digital Library. A searchable database could facilitate brands in conducting due diligence and identifying rightful holders for collaborative efforts.

    Important Points:

    • Prada's use of Kolhapuri chappals has raised concerns regarding cultural appropriation.
    • GIs are vital for marketing and protecting cultural heritage, with India registering 658 GI products.
    • The Indian GI framework includes legal provisions under the Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration and Protection) Act, 1999.
    • International protection for GIs is still largely territorial and requires recognition at the origin.
    • There is historical precedence for Indian traditional knowledge being misappropriated by international entities, leading to significant legal battles.
    • Expansion of the Traditional Knowledge Digital Library is recommended to protect traditional knowledge and prevent future exploitation.

    The article emphasizes the importance of recognizing and respecting the origins of cultural products while fostering an environment that protects traditional knowledge through comprehensive legal frameworks.

    Art and Culture

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